#moleculargastronomy #foodscience

If you aren’t familiar with the term molecular gastronomy then spend some time watching a cooking channel or food network. You’ll definitely get a glimpse of our main topic. You could see chefs using liquid nitrogen (which apparently has uses far more interesting than dermatology) to make ice-cream or some edible dirt. These are few of the many wonderful techniques used to enhance the appearance of food. This is chemistry which might make you scratch your head. But in the following article I’ll try to demystify these secrets of molecular gastronomy.
What do you mean by Molecular Gastronomy?
Well, that’s hard to say. If you search in Wikipedia they’ll simply define it as “It is a subdiscipline of food science that seeks to investigate the physical and chemical transformations of ingredients that occur while cooking.” I don’t agree with that. If that was the case then the first caveman who figured out how to cook a meat was a molecular gastronomist. I believe that any person who’s ever made a mistake while cooking and has attempted to correct it is a molecular gastronomist. Science is all about finding a solution to a problem and cooking solves all problem by making an ingredient more palatable than in its previous state. Like any other – onomy this is a study. We use science to understand what’s going on when the food cooks. The scientists wanted to know why food behaves the way it does. Making caviar out of coffee to put on a sundae, that is not molecule gastronomy it’s just molecular cooking. On the other hand, explaining why food transforms the way it does that is molecular gastronomy.
Now that we have established that what we see on TV is just “molecular cooking” rather than gastronomy, let’s talk about examples of molecular cooking applications. A good molecular cook puts emphasis to amp up all the sensory experience in all-fronts especially the most important texture. I think the coolest thing about the mouth is that it can taste and touch. (texture is just your mouth touching food). The most basic textures of food are solid, liquid and gases. When these three intertwine, they make your mouth happy. (Gases are quite tough to pull in the kitchen but with some effort you ca taste gas as well)
Setting the stage with gas

Though smoke is a mix of gas and solids, I’m calling it a gas. Having a lamb in dinner? Gas your house with rosemary to set the stage. Smoke some frozen strawberries to sweeten the air for dessert. (Imagine if movie theaters didn’t smell like popcorns). Try walking with a pan of smoked garlic in your restaurant before service. It cozies up an otherwise spare and chilly restaurant. You’d be very surprised at how an aroma can change the feel of space and impact people’s sensory experiences.
Solids liquids and everything in between

You see any molecular based food on TV, it’s basically conversion of solid into liquid or vice versa. This is the space where the bulk techniques exist. Since most liquids are largely composed of water, our normal methods for turning liquids into solids gets limited (to wit: freezing). But when you introduce hydrocolloids (Whoa what’s this?) into liquids, these help the liquid to transform into solid or semi-solid. They are composed of hydrophilic (water loving) polymers, which somehow cause the water molecules to stop moving and form a solid (in layman’s terms).
Can you use hydrocolloids in kitchen?

It’s very simple. You probably have it in your kitchen: cornstarch. It’s thickening power is twice than flour and can turn a boring liquid into delicious thick sauce or a milk into your favorite custard. (Well unless you don’t add eggs, it’s not a custard). Keep in mind that cornstarch is thermo-irreversible i.e. once your mixture heats up it will never go back to it’s original state. Also, strong acids lower its ability to function. So don’t try making an eggless lemon custard. You’ll need a kitchen scale to use hydrocolloids. Most of the recipes given on internet are done on a weigh percentage scale.
Gelatin. Oh the possibilities!

Next one is gelatin. It tolerates alcohol uniquely and is thermo-reversible means it can melt. If you make the ingredients of Ceaser Salad by dressing into gelatin cube and then serving it on hot lettuce, the salad “prepares itself” tableside.
For boozy appetizers, make wine cubes and put on crackers with cream cheese and salmon.
(Pineapple and kiwi have weird enzynes that eat the gelatin).
Foams aka eating air

Gelatin can also let us eat air. Well, kinda. By adding a little gelatin to increase the viscosity of a generally non-whipping mixture, we can charge the liquid with nitrous oxide and make and edible cloud. Whipping results in entrapment of gas, because if connection between water and gelatin. Encapsulated air is just a bubble, and lots of bubbles form foam. Foam is texture filled with flavor that dissolves in mouth. Next time you’re drizzling a sauce on a plate, get some gelatin and cream and foam it up an otherwise boring dish.
And then came Agar.

Agar is derived from seaweed. It’s a hydrocolloid and readily available in health food stores. While gelatin takes longer to set and quicker to melt, agar is quicker to set and stays like that for a longer time. It’s so easy to use. It’s less wobbly so it can be cut into cubes, triangles, squares or even noodles.
The secret behind those spheres

There’s another hydrocolloid that deserves mention: sodium alginate, which gels whe combined with calcium. It can be used in making spheres, which is a process of turning liquids into shapes that resemble a caviar (i.e. liquid encased in a sphere shaped membrane, with the help of calcium infused water).
I was doing my training in ITC Grand Central’s Garde manger kitchen. There I made a blackcurrant flavored artificial caviar. We used it to decorate a famous Gujarati dish Khandvi with a twist, instead of rolling the khandvi like a swiss roll, we simply made it a square canvas.
Weirdest of all hydrocolloids

Methylcellulose turn solids into liquids. Methyl forms solid at high temperature and liquid at low temperature. This is totally the opposite that we’ve learned so far isn’t it? With Methylcellulose you can make an ice-cream base, wrap it in plastic and poach it in hot water and serve it on top of cold apple pie. Ice cream is hot, mind is blown.
Edible dirt

Let me introduce you to “dirts”. Dirt is a gross thing to eat, but imagine if your perfectly poached eggs mounted on top of bacon-dripping dirt. Dirts are liquid turned into powdery, crumbly solids. This is done with fats and maltodextrin, which you may find on the ingredients of lots of processed foods.
The process is simple, blend maltodextrin with your favorite fat (olive oil, coconut milk, bacon fat, etc) and watch it turn into dirt. Now you can make shrimp coated with curried coconut milk dirt or even bacon dusted doughnuts.
Thankyou maltodextrin for being the crumbling chemical you are.
-Surabhi Kanade